Good Catch

The Underwater Guide to Seattle Seafood

Edited by Allison Williams By Eric Nusbaum, Allecia Vermillion, and Allison Williams Photography by Sarah Flotard Styled by Suzy Bichl February 16, 2024 Published in the Spring 2024 issue of Seattle Met

At the first Christmas the Denny Party spent in Washington after landing at Alki Beach in 1851, the Indigenous locals shared clam juice with the underprepared newcomers who had no milk for their children. Seafood had nourished the people of the Salish Sea for thousands of years, salmon forming the backbone of Indigenous culture while clams, cod, and oysters rounded out a rich buffet.

In 1938, one big fire and a gold rush later, a man named Ivar Haglund opened a sightseeing aquarium on Pier 54, along with a fish-and-chips stand to feed the customers—an eatery that evolved into Ivar’s Acres of Clams, billed as “where clams and culture meet.” Almost a century after that, vessels still stream in and out of Fishermen’s Terminal, and the sight of fishmongers tossing salmon is shorthand for a city built around the water.

It’s not just that our sea life tastes good, though the buttery salmon fillet and the tangy native oyster obviously leave their marks on the palate. And no one who’s ever sampled the springy saltiness of a geoduck ceviche can forget the experience. It’s that catching this bounty, sharing it and selling it, has defined the city for generations. Seattle has always meant seafood.


Image: Sarah Flotard

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