Where to Eat on Phinney Ridge
People used to toss around words like “reliable” or “low-key” to describe the concentration of restaurants on Phinney Ridge. The real action was north in Greenwood, or down the hill in Ballard. Over the years, though, a few new spots trickled in to live double lives as neighborhood hangouts that also draw diners from across Seattle.
Then—boom. The first months of 2024 created twin gravity centers just a few blocks apart. Sophon gave brick-and-mortar permanence to the Cambodian menu that began at its sibling cocktail bar, Oliver’s Twist, during the darkest days of the pandemic. Meanwhile, Renee Erickson’s Lioness completed the superfecta of bars and restaurants inside the Shared Roof Building. They join a growing body of evidence: Phinney Ridge is officially a destination for very good food.
Ben's Bread
Baker Ben Campbell was an early adopter of Washington grain who made his name on some of the best loaves in the city. But the bakery he runs with his wife, Megan, does so much more: danishes, scones, plus simple, perfect breakfast sandwiches and lunchtime specials that seemingly sell out in an instant. Lines are common, but at least its location in the Shared Roof building means you can queue in a covered courtyard.
Sophon
When the pandemic shuttered bars and restaurants, Oliver’s Twist owner Karuna Long launched a takeout menu that ditched the bar bites in favor of the Cambodian dishes he grew up with. At last, these Khmer flavors have a restaurant of their very own, next door to the cocktail bar where it began. Sophon is just now transitioning into its full menu, and adjusting to the crowds that have descended since day one. But the restaurant is well on its way to serving some of Seattle’s most memorable food (and cocktails, of course).
Lioness
Renee Erickson’s newest spot is this tiny enoteca hideaway with big style and even bigger chandeliers. The eight tables (and standing bar) are walk-in only and fill up fast. But dishes like smoked black cod mousse, pasta, and an enormous meatball, not to mention the build-your-own martini tray, make up for the wait times. Across the courtyard, Holy Mountain’s taproom and Doe Bay Wine Company can occupy diners waiting for a table.
Autumn
Brian Clevenger’s restaurant on Greenwood Avenue shows off the chef’s signature formula at its best: a dining room that leans into new construction’s spare lines, and pasta, seafood, and vegetable dishes where decadence lies in the details. Plates of polenta fries, bucatini, and pork chops offer indulgence, then surprise you (in a pleasant way) with the price tag.
Windy City Pie
It’s the town’s best Chicago-style deep-dish, ringed with crisp browned cheese and all flavors carefully balanced. A 12-inch pie really does feed four ravenous adults, and given the cook times, it’s still a good idea to order pies ahead of time online, even if you plan to eat in. This low-key bar also serves up major Chicago nostalgia, including a tavern-style pie that’s just as impressive as the deep-dish.
The Chicken Supply
Filipino fried chicken restaurants like Jollibee inspired Paolo Campbell and Donnie Adams, but the counter service spot they created is very much their own: chicken crackles—literally via its gluten-free crust, but also with marinated flavors of tamari, ginger, and lemon. Sides veer away from American South staples to embrace Philippine flavors, and the butter mochi inspires as much bare-knuckled desire as the chicken. Preorder online, before the day’s cache is gone.
Red Mill Burgers
The kitchen’s Lincoln Log stack of bacon, used for burger toppings, practically needed its own press agent in the early-aughts era of food TV. But this decades-old burger shop transcends Guy Fieri bait. Burgers are roughly the size of a birthday cake and come in classic iterations or versions topped with roasted peppers, red onions, or the house sauce, which has an unexpected kick of smoke and spice. Onion rings trump fries.